Paris Haute Couture Week is always a stage for grand transformations, and this season, all eyes were on Alessandro Michele’s debut collection for Valentino. The former Gucci creative director, known for his maximalist, eclectic vision, brought his signature drama to the storied house—but did it truly feel like Valentino?
A Bold Interpretation of Couture
Michele’s approach was nothing short of extravagant. The collection was filled with voluminous gowns floating over hidden crinolines, reminiscent of Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2020 silhouettes. The opening look, a harlequin-patterned ensemble, set the tone for a theatrical journey through ruffled polka dots, sheer lace, and florals draped over wide panniers—a nod to the opulence of 18th-century French court fashion.Beyond the grandeur, Michele also reinterpreted Poiret-style harem pants, 1940s-inspired sharp-shouldered suits, and ultra-ruffled blouses, bringing a mix of historical references and playful excess.But the question remains: Did this collection embody Valentino’s essence?
There were clear references to the house’s archives—cardinal red, polka dots, and even the semi-sheer floral chiffon dress immortalized by Angelica Huston in Vogue Italia (1972). However, Michele’s “more-is-more” aesthetic felt worlds away from Valentino’s trademark grace and refinement. Instead, it leaned toward theatricality over elegance, evoking costumes rather than couture.
Couture’s Standout: Schiaparelli’s Timeless Refinement
In stark contrast to Michele’s lavish spectacle, Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli collection was a study in balance—structured corsets, padded hips, and mid-century couture influences, refined through modern precision. Roseberry continues to master the art of blending heritage and innovation, making Schiaparelli one of the week’s most praised collections.
Lanvin’s Quiet Comeback
Another highlight was Peter Copping’s ready-to-wear debut at Lanvin. The collection, understated yet beautifully constructed, felt like a respectful return to the brand’s roots. After two years without a creative director, Lanvin’s future finally looks promising.
What’s Next for Valentino?
Michele’s first couture collection for Valentino has undoubtedly sparked debate. While some admire its bold, fantastical vision, others question whether it aligns with the house’s DNA of effortless sophistication. Will future collections bring a more refined approach, or is Valentino entering a new era of theatrical extravagance?
Alessandro Michele’s Debut at Valentino : A Theatrical Spectacle
Paris Haute Couture Week is always a stage for grand transformations, and this season, all eyes were on Alessandro Michele’s debut collection for Valentino. The former Gucci creative director, known for his maximalist, eclectic vision, brought his signature drama to the storied house—but did it truly feel like Valentino?
A Bold Interpretation of Couture
Michele’s approach was nothing short of extravagant. The collection was filled with voluminous gowns floating over hidden crinolines, reminiscent of Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2020 silhouettes. The opening look, a harlequin-patterned ensemble, set the tone for a theatrical journey through ruffled polka dots, sheer lace, and florals draped over wide panniers—a nod to the opulence of 18th-century French court fashion.Beyond the grandeur, Michele also reinterpreted Poiret-style harem pants, 1940s-inspired sharp-shouldered suits, and ultra-ruffled blouses, bringing a mix of historical references and playful excess.But the question remains: Did this collection embody Valentino’s essence?
There were clear references to the house’s archives—cardinal red, polka dots, and even the semi-sheer floral chiffon dress immortalized by Angelica Huston in Vogue Italia (1972). However, Michele’s “more-is-more” aesthetic felt worlds away from Valentino’s trademark grace and refinement. Instead, it leaned toward theatricality over elegance, evoking costumes rather than couture.
Couture’s Standout: Schiaparelli’s Timeless Refinement
In stark contrast to Michele’s lavish spectacle, Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli collection was a study in balance—structured corsets, padded hips, and mid-century couture influences, refined through modern precision. Roseberry continues to master the art of blending heritage and innovation, making Schiaparelli one of the week’s most praised collections.
Lanvin’s Quiet Comeback
Another highlight was Peter Copping’s ready-to-wear debut at Lanvin. The collection, understated yet beautifully constructed, felt like a respectful return to the brand’s roots. After two years without a creative director, Lanvin’s future finally looks promising.
What’s Next for Valentino?
Michele’s first couture collection for Valentino has undoubtedly sparked debate. While some admire its bold, fantastical vision, others question whether it aligns with the house’s DNA of effortless sophistication. Will future collections bring a more refined approach, or is Valentino entering a new era of theatrical extravagance?