Burberry’s Latest Show, Jil Sander’s Farewell, and the Return of Skinny Jeans
London’s fashion scene is still buzzing from Burberry’s autumn/winter 2025 show at the Tate Britain on Monday night, a spectacle that might—according to whispers from WWD and other trade outlets—mark Daniel Lee’s swan song as the brand’s creative director. If it was his final bow, Lee didn’t let it show. Far from the subdued, budget-conscious exits typical of departing designers, this was a star-studded affair. Orlando Bloom, Nicholas Hoult, and a handful of Beckhams lined the front row, while the runway itself featured unexpected cameos from Richard E. Grant, Elizabeth McGovern of Downton Abbey, and Lesley Manville from The Crown.
The collection leaned into a new chapter for Burberry, guided by CEO Josh Schulman’s push to refocus on outerwear, scarves, and the brand’s more traditional clientele. Gone was Lee’s signature grunge; in its place was a polished, aspirational take inspired by the British country estate—think Saltburn meets aristocratic luxe. Quilted florals, faded damask velvets, and jodhpurs evoked a classic country-house vibe, while the outerwear stole the spotlight: from a subtle checked wool coat to a glossy leather poncho and fringed trench coats that screamed opulence. The oversized velour scarves added plush practicality. Critics might note echoes of Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta in the fringes, Prada in the jodhpurs, or Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe in the scarves—nothing groundbreaking, perhaps—but for Burberry, this felt like a confident step toward reclaiming its heritage as Britain’s luxury mainstay.
Backstage, Lee dodged questions about his future, offering only a diplomatic nod to Schulman: “Josh has been here just over six months, it’s going really well, things are definitely improving.” Burberry’s spokesperson, meanwhile, brushed off the speculation with a standard “no comment.” For now, the runway’s magic lingers, whether Lee stays or goes.
Jil Sander’s Creative Duo Bids Adieu
Across the Channel in Milan, another seismic shift unfolded. On Wednesday, Luke and Lucie Meier unveiled their autumn/winter 2025 collection for Jil Sander—just hours before parent company OTB announced that the husband-and-wife duo would be stepping down, marking the end of their eight-year tenure. In an industry where creative directors rarely last that long, their exit feels bittersweet. Having steered Dior’s design studio post-Raf Simons and pre-Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Meiers brought a distinct vision to Jil Sander: early collections married bold volumes with minimalist restraint, evolving into looser, more colorful designs over time. Their autumn/winter 2020 lineup remains a standout.
Yet, as the New York Times’ Jacob Gallagher observed, they never landed on that elusive “it” item to turn critical acclaim into commercial gold—perhaps a sticking point for OTB’s owner, Renzo Rosso. With OTB acquiring Jil Sander from Japan’s Onward Holdings in 2021 and a new CEO, Serge Brunschwig, stepping in this month, change was brewing. No successor has been named, and Lucie’s departure leaves OTB—home to Diesel and Maison Margiela—without a female creative director, a detail that hasn’t gone unnoticed.
Skinny Jeans creep back - But do we want them ?
Elsewhere, the Y2K revival is in full swing, with skinny jeans, bootcuts, and flares all vying for a comeback. Miu Miu and Balenciaga championed skinnies for autumn/winter 2024, while Bella Hadid, Celine (via Kendrick Lamar’s Super Bowl halftime look), and Alexander McQueen have revived the bootcut. Fashion outlets can’t stop declaring these trends “back,” but the question remains: Are we ready to relive the skinny-jean era?
For some, the answer’s a hard no. London stylist Anna Berkeley, in her latest Ask a Stylist column, advises against them for certain frames, suggesting wider-leg alternatives instead. Her tip? Pair jeans with a tonal top and a heel for a sleek, elongating effect: “A column of one colour is immensely streamlining.” Whether you’re embracing the trend or dodging it, the nostalgia is undeniable—and inescapable.
Fashion’s Shifting Tides
Burberry’s Latest Show, Jil Sander’s Farewell, and the Return of Skinny Jeans
London’s fashion scene is still buzzing from Burberry’s autumn/winter 2025 show at the Tate Britain on Monday night, a spectacle that might—according to whispers from WWD and other trade outlets—mark Daniel Lee’s swan song as the brand’s creative director. If it was his final bow, Lee didn’t let it show. Far from the subdued, budget-conscious exits typical of departing designers, this was a star-studded affair. Orlando Bloom, Nicholas Hoult, and a handful of Beckhams lined the front row, while the runway itself featured unexpected cameos from Richard E. Grant, Elizabeth McGovern of Downton Abbey, and Lesley Manville from The Crown.
The collection leaned into a new chapter for Burberry, guided by CEO Josh Schulman’s push to refocus on outerwear, scarves, and the brand’s more traditional clientele. Gone was Lee’s signature grunge; in its place was a polished, aspirational take inspired by the British country estate—think Saltburn meets aristocratic luxe. Quilted florals, faded damask velvets, and jodhpurs evoked a classic country-house vibe, while the outerwear stole the spotlight: from a subtle checked wool coat to a glossy leather poncho and fringed trench coats that screamed opulence. The oversized velour scarves added plush practicality. Critics might note echoes of Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta in the fringes, Prada in the jodhpurs, or Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe in the scarves—nothing groundbreaking, perhaps—but for Burberry, this felt like a confident step toward reclaiming its heritage as Britain’s luxury mainstay.
Backstage, Lee dodged questions about his future, offering only a diplomatic nod to Schulman: “Josh has been here just over six months, it’s going really well, things are definitely improving.” Burberry’s spokesperson, meanwhile, brushed off the speculation with a standard “no comment.” For now, the runway’s magic lingers, whether Lee stays or goes.
Jil Sander’s Creative Duo Bids Adieu
Across the Channel in Milan, another seismic shift unfolded. On Wednesday, Luke and Lucie Meier unveiled their autumn/winter 2025 collection for Jil Sander—just hours before parent company OTB announced that the husband-and-wife duo would be stepping down, marking the end of their eight-year tenure. In an industry where creative directors rarely last that long, their exit feels bittersweet. Having steered Dior’s design studio post-Raf Simons and pre-Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Meiers brought a distinct vision to Jil Sander: early collections married bold volumes with minimalist restraint, evolving into looser, more colorful designs over time. Their autumn/winter 2020 lineup remains a standout.
Yet, as the New York Times’ Jacob Gallagher observed, they never landed on that elusive “it” item to turn critical acclaim into commercial gold—perhaps a sticking point for OTB’s owner, Renzo Rosso. With OTB acquiring Jil Sander from Japan’s Onward Holdings in 2021 and a new CEO, Serge Brunschwig, stepping in this month, change was brewing. No successor has been named, and Lucie’s departure leaves OTB—home to Diesel and Maison Margiela—without a female creative director, a detail that hasn’t gone unnoticed.
Skinny Jeans creep back - But do we want them ?
Elsewhere, the Y2K revival is in full swing, with skinny jeans, bootcuts, and flares all vying for a comeback. Miu Miu and Balenciaga championed skinnies for autumn/winter 2024, while Bella Hadid, Celine (via Kendrick Lamar’s Super Bowl halftime look), and Alexander McQueen have revived the bootcut. Fashion outlets can’t stop declaring these trends “back,” but the question remains: Are we ready to relive the skinny-jean era?
For some, the answer’s a hard no. London stylist Anna Berkeley, in her latest Ask a Stylist column, advises against them for certain frames, suggesting wider-leg alternatives instead. Her tip? Pair jeans with a tonal top and a heel for a sleek, elongating effect: “A column of one colour is immensely streamlining.” Whether you’re embracing the trend or dodging it, the nostalgia is undeniable—and inescapable.