In fashion, perception often shapes reality. But for American designers at New York Fashion Week, one truth stood out: reinvention is key in a rapidly evolving industry. As global luxury sales fluctuate and consumer habits shift, designers are finding inspiration in the past to craft the future. This season, the runway became a portal to familiar aesthetics, from the sleek minimalism of Phoebe Philo’s Celine to the rebellious edge of ’90s streetwear and the refined glamour of classic American sportswear.
A return to timeless elegance
Tory Burch embraced the essence of American sportswear, offering a collection rooted in ease and adaptability. The designer reimagined wardrobe staples with a contemporary twist—sweatpants and rugbies in luxurious Japanese jersey, oversized button-downs with exaggerated sleeves, and slingback shoes with sculptural straps. “I wanted pieces to feel both current and timeless,” Burch explained. In an era where fleeting trends dominate, her approach felt refreshingly enduring.
At Thom Browne, nostalgia met avant-garde storytelling. His runway, set against a dreamlike installation of 2,000 origami birds at Hudson Yards, showcased a reinterpretation of his signature shrunken wool suits. Conceptual yet wearable, the collection featured long-panelled skirts and voluminous A-line dresses that balanced structure with fluidity. Browne’s ability to blend tradition with theatricality remains unmatched.
The enduring appeal of the ’90s
For Michael Kors and Coach, the ’90s proved an irresistible source of inspiration. Kors, fresh off opening a new Madison Avenue store, aimed to reinvigorate his brand with more accessible luxury. His collection, showcased at the legendary Tunnel nightclub—a former hub of New York’s club scene—channeled the effortless style of Uma Thurman and Sharon Stone. Oversized men’s blazers, baggy trousers, and floor-length sequined gowns defined his vision of “dégagé chic,” a refined yet relaxed aesthetic.
Coach, under Stuart Vevers, continued to resonate with Gen Z consumers, a demographic that has propelled the brand to new heights. With a collection inspired by the raw energy of ’90s New York, Vevers leaned into skater and raver influences, presenting oversized, upcycled denim, grungy silk dresses layered over jeans, and signature bags adorned with playful, furry charms. The success of Coach proves that nostalgia, when executed thoughtfully, has enduring commercial appeal.
Calvin klein’s minimalist rebirth
Veronica Leoni’s debut as creative director of Calvin Klein’s Collection line marked a return to the brand’s minimalist roots. With Calvin Klein himself making a rare front-row appearance, Leoni paid homage to his iconic aesthetic with androgynous outerwear, tailored monochrome suits, and crisp button-downs layered under clean, structured sweaters. “I wanted to reconnect with the energy of Mr. Klein’s original vision,” she noted. Her restrained yet powerful designs signaled a promising new chapter for the brand.
Embracing craftsmanship and individuality
Beyond nostalgia, New York Fashion Week underscored a growing appreciation for craftsmanship. Frances Howie’s Fforme explored couture techniques at a contemporary price point, with multidirectional bias-cut dresses and impeccably tailored suiting. Khaite, helmed by Catherine Holstein, delivered a collection that seamlessly blended sensuality and strength—oversized leather outerwear, sheer sweaters, and leopard-print boots catered to the discerning fashion elite.
Meanwhile, Joseph Altuzarra turned to Victorian romanticism, drawing from Emily Brontë’s Wuthering Heights. Flowing dresses with lip prints and crystal-adorned gowns exuded ethereal charm. Anna Sui, ever the storyteller, found inspiration in eccentric 1930s heiresses, unveiling whimsical magpie prints and crushed velvet dresses.
The rise of independent voices
At the heart of New York Fashion Week were designers redefining the landscape on their own terms. Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera modernized classic elegance, transforming the white button-down shirt into a bold statement piece. Luar’s Raul Lopez, a rising star with a cult following, continued to blend urban energy with high fashion, offering structured silhouettes with flamboyant details. “We’re here, and we’re not going anywhere,” Lopez declared, emphasizing the importance of diverse representation in fashion.
As the industry navigates an era of change, New York Fashion Week proved that fashion’s past remains an invaluable tool for shaping its future. Whether through nostalgic references or meticulous craftsmanship, designers demonstrated that the most powerful trends are those that withstand the test of time.
Fashion's nostalgic revival: New York fashion week takes a trip through time
In fashion, perception often shapes reality. But for American designers at New York Fashion Week, one truth stood out: reinvention is key in a rapidly evolving industry. As global luxury sales fluctuate and consumer habits shift, designers are finding inspiration in the past to craft the future. This season, the runway became a portal to familiar aesthetics, from the sleek minimalism of Phoebe Philo’s Celine to the rebellious edge of ’90s streetwear and the refined glamour of classic American sportswear.
A return to timeless elegance
Tory Burch embraced the essence of American sportswear, offering a collection rooted in ease and adaptability. The designer reimagined wardrobe staples with a contemporary twist—sweatpants and rugbies in luxurious Japanese jersey, oversized button-downs with exaggerated sleeves, and slingback shoes with sculptural straps. “I wanted pieces to feel both current and timeless,” Burch explained. In an era where fleeting trends dominate, her approach felt refreshingly enduring.
At Thom Browne, nostalgia met avant-garde storytelling. His runway, set against a dreamlike installation of 2,000 origami birds at Hudson Yards, showcased a reinterpretation of his signature shrunken wool suits. Conceptual yet wearable, the collection featured long-panelled skirts and voluminous A-line dresses that balanced structure with fluidity. Browne’s ability to blend tradition with theatricality remains unmatched.
The enduring appeal of the ’90s
For Michael Kors and Coach, the ’90s proved an irresistible source of inspiration. Kors, fresh off opening a new Madison Avenue store, aimed to reinvigorate his brand with more accessible luxury. His collection, showcased at the legendary Tunnel nightclub—a former hub of New York’s club scene—channeled the effortless style of Uma Thurman and Sharon Stone. Oversized men’s blazers, baggy trousers, and floor-length sequined gowns defined his vision of “dégagé chic,” a refined yet relaxed aesthetic.
Coach, under Stuart Vevers, continued to resonate with Gen Z consumers, a demographic that has propelled the brand to new heights. With a collection inspired by the raw energy of ’90s New York, Vevers leaned into skater and raver influences, presenting oversized, upcycled denim, grungy silk dresses layered over jeans, and signature bags adorned with playful, furry charms. The success of Coach proves that nostalgia, when executed thoughtfully, has enduring commercial appeal.
Calvin klein’s minimalist rebirth
Veronica Leoni’s debut as creative director of Calvin Klein’s Collection line marked a return to the brand’s minimalist roots. With Calvin Klein himself making a rare front-row appearance, Leoni paid homage to his iconic aesthetic with androgynous outerwear, tailored monochrome suits, and crisp button-downs layered under clean, structured sweaters. “I wanted to reconnect with the energy of Mr. Klein’s original vision,” she noted. Her restrained yet powerful designs signaled a promising new chapter for the brand.
Embracing craftsmanship and individuality
Beyond nostalgia, New York Fashion Week underscored a growing appreciation for craftsmanship. Frances Howie’s Fforme explored couture techniques at a contemporary price point, with multidirectional bias-cut dresses and impeccably tailored suiting. Khaite, helmed by Catherine Holstein, delivered a collection that seamlessly blended sensuality and strength—oversized leather outerwear, sheer sweaters, and leopard-print boots catered to the discerning fashion elite.
Meanwhile, Joseph Altuzarra turned to Victorian romanticism, drawing from Emily Brontë’s Wuthering Heights. Flowing dresses with lip prints and crystal-adorned gowns exuded ethereal charm. Anna Sui, ever the storyteller, found inspiration in eccentric 1930s heiresses, unveiling whimsical magpie prints and crushed velvet dresses.
The rise of independent voices
At the heart of New York Fashion Week were designers redefining the landscape on their own terms. Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera modernized classic elegance, transforming the white button-down shirt into a bold statement piece. Luar’s Raul Lopez, a rising star with a cult following, continued to blend urban energy with high fashion, offering structured silhouettes with flamboyant details. “We’re here, and we’re not going anywhere,” Lopez declared, emphasizing the importance of diverse representation in fashion.
As the industry navigates an era of change, New York Fashion Week proved that fashion’s past remains an invaluable tool for shaping its future. Whether through nostalgic references or meticulous craftsmanship, designers demonstrated that the most powerful trends are those that withstand the test of time.